Nepalese-British mountaineer Nirmal Purja and all 10 members of his expedition team died in an avalanche on Broad Peak, Pakistan, on July 30, 2026 [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]. Purja was leading the international climbing team composed of five Nepalese, one Pakistani, one Omani, one American, one Chinese climber, and himself when the disaster struck [1, 3].
Purja, 43 years old at the time, was widely known for setting a world record by climbing all 14 peaks above 8,000 meters within six months and six days in 2019 [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]. His feats were featured in the Netflix documentary "14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible" [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]. He had served in the British Army’s Brigade of Gurkhas and Special Boat Service before becoming a mountaineer [1, 2, 3, 4, 5].
The avalanche occurred at Broad Peak, which is 8,051 meters high, a part of the Karakoram range [3, 4, 5]. The team lost contact shortly after the avalanche on July 30 [1, 2, 4, 5]. Rescue teams recovered Purja’s body and those of some teammates at about 5,700 meters on the mountain by August 2 [2, 4, 5]. Three other bodies—those of an Omani woman, a Nepalese man, and an American woman—were found and airlifted to Skardu on July 31 [2, 4]. Some bodies remain at higher, harder-to-reach elevations, making recovery difficult due to dangerous terrain and weather [2, 4, 5].
Purja had posted shortly before setting out that he aimed to become the first person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders twice without bottled oxygen [1, 2, 4, 5]. He famously said about Broad Peak, "布洛德峰，我別無所求，只求平安上山、平安下山" (Broad Peak, I only wish for a safe climb up and down) [2].
Prince William called Purja "one of the greatest mountaineers in the world" who brought global attention to Nepali climbers [2]. Nepal’s Prime Minister Balendra Shah stated the climbers’ courage and dedication "will inspire the world forever" after their deaths [1]. Purja’s company, Elite Expeditions, said, "Nirmal and all lost lives will always be remembered; their spirit and mission will continue to inspire future generations" [3].
